Best draught excluders for doors and windows this winter
The simplest, cheapest way to stop heat (and money) leaking out of your home
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Every winter, a huge chunk of the heat you pay for escapes through gaps around doors and windows you've probably never thought twice about. Draught-proofing is one of the cheapest, fastest fixes in the whole energy-saving toolkit — most jobs take minutes and cost a few pounds, yet the draughts you stop keep working for years. Here's a straightforward, no-nonsense look at the types of draught excluder worth considering, so you can match the fix to the gap rather than guessing.
A self-adhesive foam weatherstrip tape
This is the cheapest and most flexible option for sealing thin, uneven gaps around window frames and door frames. It sticks straight on, needs no tools, and comes in rolls long enough to do a whole house.
Best for: Sash windows, casement windows and door frames with small or uneven gaps
See options on AmazonA brush-pile door sweep (screw-fit)
These fit along the bottom of the door and use a dense brush strip to block draughts while still letting the door open and close freely over carpet or uneven flooring. They're more durable than stick-on strips for high-traffic doors.
Best for: Front doors, back doors and internal doors with gaps under 2cm
See options on AmazonA fabric draught excluder sausage (door snake)
The classic no-fuss option: just place it along the bottom of the door, no fixing or adhesive required. Great for renters who can't alter doors or window frames.
Best for: Renters, internal doors, and anyone wanting a removable option
See options on AmazonA letterbox draught excluder brush
Letterboxes are a surprisingly large source of heat loss and are often overlooked. A brush or flap cover seals the gap while still allowing post through.
Best for: Front doors with a letterbox that lets in a noticeable cold breeze
See options on AmazonA keyhole draught cover
A small, cheap fix for an often-forgotten gap. These simple covers swing aside when the key is used and seal the hole the rest of the time.
Best for: Older doors with traditional keyholes
See options on AmazonA window draught excluder strip with a flexible fin seal
Rubber or silicone fin seals cope better with slightly larger or irregular gaps than foam tape, and tend to last longer without compressing flat.
Best for: Older or warped window frames where foam tape wears out quickly
See options on AmazonA loft hatch draught excluder kit
Loft hatches are rarely sealed properly and can let warm air escape straight up into an unheated loft. A simple foam or brush seal kit closes this gap in minutes.
Best for: Homes with a loft hatch that doesn't sit flush or has visible gaps
See options on AmazonA chimney or fireplace draught excluder (balloon or pillow)
An open, unused fireplace can be one of the biggest single sources of heat loss in a room. An inflatable or pillow-style excluder blocks the flue while remaining easy to remove if the fire is used again.
Best for: Rooms with an open chimney that's no longer used for fires
See options on AmazonBuying tips
- Measure gaps before buying — foam tape suits small, even gaps, while brush or fin seals cope better with bigger or uneven ones.
- Clean and dry the surface thoroughly before fitting self-adhesive strips, or they'll peel off within weeks.
- Check doors and windows on a windy day with your hand near the edges to find draughts you can't see.
- Don't forget often-missed gaps: letterboxes, keyholes, loft hatches and unused chimneys all lose heat.
- If you're renting, choose removable options like door snakes and stick-on strips designed to come off cleanly.
- Combine a couple of fixes (e.g. door sweep plus letterbox brush) for a bigger overall improvement than one product alone.
None of these fixes will transform a cold house into a warm one overnight, but together they stop you paying to heat the pavement outside your front door. Start with the gaps you can feel a draught from, work through the list, and you'll likely notice a difference within the first cold evening.